Day 8: Papallacta Pass & Guango Lodge
Reminiscent of our first night in Quito, we were serenaded by late night noise. Not barking dogs but by raucous revelers in the pools outside our rooms. Stepping out onto our porch in the early morning we were greeted by discarded cigarette packs, empty beer cans and articles of clothing. I was sorely tempted to knock on doors and ask if any of the revelers would care to join us in our pre-dawn birding adventure. Alas, I wasn’t sure which doors to knock on. Besides, I doubted that they would have been interested at such an early hour wake-up call (but then that was the point wasn’t it?). Therein lies the difference between an EcoLodge and LuxuryLodge – birders at EcoLodges spend way too much time working from the early morning until dark to ever have the energy to stay up and party into the wee hours! It is what it is.
On a more positive note I looked up and for a moment, I thought I caught sight of a few stars. Clouds, yes, but a few stars? Perhaps today we might forego rain?
We assembled in the lobby to find hotel staff (actually the security staff) offering hot water and instant coffee and tea bags. Not like the attentive staff at Tandayapa but better than nothing. José’s efforts to make this happen were much appreciated!
Niko and José gathered up our “box breakfast” containers neatly lined up on the unmanned front desk and began ferrying them out to the bus. Truth be known, our “box” lunches were never actually in boxes – they were in either plastic or paper bags.
Aboard the bus we made our way along the lodge’s gravel access road, which in turn connected to the road in town and finally onto the paved highway. Yes, by golly, there were a few stars in the sky.
Niko, shifting gears like crazy, coaxed our bus up the paved two-lane highway until we reached the top of the pass. Parking in a pull-off near a small religious shrine, we breathed in the view. Wow. With the sun just starting to appear over the horizon, in the distance, was our old friend Antisana. Any complaints from the night before about having to get up so early quickly evaporated.
Our “breakfast” was parceled out, each of us receiving the limited option we had chosen the night before. I had grown weary of jamón con queso (ham with cheese) and had requested what I thought was a plain queso (cheese) sandwich. What I got was plain cheese – slices of cheese on a small paper plate wrapped in foil. No bread – white, dark or otherwise – just cheese! Fortunately someone had a small container of Ritz-style crackers squirreled away from a previous box lunch (our box lunches were always over stocked with snacks). I gratefully took them while muttering to myself that I would never again complain about our box lunches. This “breakfast” had to have set an all-time low!
As we ate and explored the parking area, most everyone used the time for photo ops. A Stout-billed Cinclodes foraged nearby. I wondered to myself if it ate cheese?
With the sun now up over the horizon José had us board the bus. We crossed the paved highway, and almost immediately turned onto a gravel road. Our plan was to drive/walk/bird our way to the top of a ridge bristling with an antenna farm overlooking the pass.
We were definitely in need of layers as the air was cool and crisp. The páramo landscape on this side of Antisana was far wetter than the drier páramo we had encountered on Day 2. Visually I think of it as a “tropical alpine” habitat when I compare it to what we’ve seen above tree line in the Rocky Mountains.
The view of surrounding area only got better. At one point in the same frame appeared both snow-covered volcano peaks – Antisana and Cotopaxi with a lake in the foreground. As we walked we encountered a RED-RUMPED BUSH-TYRANT singing loudly, balanced on a power pole guy-wire. Other finds were: ANDEAN TIT-SPINETAIL, MANY-STRIPED CANASTERO, WHITE-CHINNED THISTLETAIL, and BROWN-BACKED CHAT-TYRANT. A VARIABLE HAWK fly-over along with more Carunculated (don’t you just love that word?!) Caracara. Also good looks at BROWN-BELLIED SWALLOW.
Nearing the top of the ridge Richard spotted two RUFOUS-BELLIED SEED-SNIPE, which while they didn’t sit still, gave us great looks. Again, not every birder that makes the journey up to the antenna farm will find seed-snipe. And the weather is totally unpredictable.
Forging ahead, we reached the summit and the antenna farm. It was now 9:00 AM and as foreseen by José, thick clouds began to close in around us obscuring the view. We encountered a couple of heavily dressed guards who posed for pictures. They probably had seen birders all the time and doubtless have the view that we must be nutty folks. Nutty and harmless. The guards have to work in the cold and fog – we chose to be there as part of our vacation? What must they think.
Niko turned the bus around and we started back down, stopping at a wet meadow where we fanned out to try and flush Andean Snipe, which are said to be widespread in páramo. Apparently not so widespread. At least they were in no mood to be flushed that morning. However, we did enjoy walking through a very wet and at times boggy páramo admiring the variety of sedge grasses, cushion plants, mosses and lichen. Close to 60% of the all plant species we found in páramo grow nowhere else in the world.
Tawny Antpitta seemed to be calling from everywhere. Near the road one appeared atop some scrub. As we stopped to watch, José shouted, “Condor! Condor!” Indeed an ANDEAN CONDOR was circling above. We unloaded the bus in record time and were rewarded with a much longer, better look compared to the glimpse most of us had on Day 2. This was an adult, flashing its hallmark upper wing white flight feathers and white ruff at the neck. An Andean Condor graces the cover of the checklist we had made up for the tour. Now I understand why Richard, when he saw the cover, had remarked that he hoped we would actually see one. They have become so rare that it is no longer a given that tours always do.
Crossing the paved highway once more we turned onto another gravel road located just beyond the shrine. This road sloped downward into a Polylepis Forest habitat commonly associated with
We hiked well off the road whenever José heard birds we should investigate. Walking was strained at times due to our high elevation and having to wrestle through tall and uneven hummocks of grasses. Edge birding – where the high bushes and slope met the grassy areas produced: GIANT CONEBILL, BLACK-BACKED BUSH-TANAGER, and AGILE TIT-TYRANT. An elusive heard, but not seen, PARAMO TAPACULO played with our emotions. UNIFORMED ANTSHRIKE also played coy but eventually provided enough sneak peeks for some to see. Also at times during our off-road hiking we encountered swarms of tiny biting gnat-sized insects. They didn’t leave any welts but boy, howdy, they sure were a huge distraction!
Back on the bus we drove to where the dirt road rejoined the paved highway. Above the detour to Papallacta we scoped Laguna Papallacta and added a new trip bird: NEOTROPICAL CORMORANT. We arrived back at the lodge around 12:30. The front desk informed us that the washing machine was back in service. Anyone wishing to have laundry done would need to bring it right away to the desk in order for it to be ready by late afternoon Once everyone’s laundry was dropped off, we gathered for lunch.
Making up for the skimpy box breakfast, the lodge provided us with a huge lunch. Woof! Nap time! But our afternoon plan was to drive to Guango Lodge. Since Guango was so close and the drive to get there would be short, there was no need to rush. In fact José suggested that we meet at the bus around 3:00, which gave everyone about an hour and a half of “free” time.
Many took the opportunity to again soak in the hot springs. Others simply relaxed on their deck and watched for a Shining Sunbeam, which was a regular around the pool gardens. Richard and I chose to walk around the lodge grounds. He had heard that there was a trail above the lodge, which might prove interesting. The walk turned out to be fairly unproductive unless one hadn’t seen any Masked Flowerpiercers (which were everywhere). On a botanical note, we found a tree with a large brightly colored mistletoe comprised of red and yellow flowers.
Wrapping up our walkabout we noticed that the gate located immediately across from the lodge entrance was unlocked. The gate lead to a covered bridge, which crossed the Papallacta River. Crossing the bridge, we looked for any sign of dippers but found none. Wandering the other side of the river, we found lots of trumpet flowers suggesting a good draw for Sword-billed Hummingbirds, but none appeared.
Re-crossing the bridge to the lodge we glanced one last time at the river and FINALLY happened upon a WHITE-CAPPED DIPPER close to the bridge, hunting on rocks. This species of dipper is far less inclined to dive into rushing water like its North American cousin, the American Dipper. Instead it prefers to forage for insects found where the rock surface meets the water. Alas, no one, including Marge who had the dipper as a “must see” trip bird, were anywhere to be found to share the sighting!
At 3:00 PM the group reformed and boarded the bus for the ten kilometer drive down the road to Guango Lodge.
Barely a stone’s’ throw from the lodge parking lot, we found ourselves confronted with multiple hummingbird feeders situated just off a patio in front of Guango’s main entrance. Ah! This was more like it! New to the trip birds: GREEN VIOLET-EAR, CHESTNUT-BREASTED CORONET, TOURMALENE SUNANGEL, GLOWING PUFFLEG, VIRIDIAN METALTAIL, BLUE-MANTLED THORNBILL, LONG-TAILED SYLPH, and WHITE-BELLIED WOODSTAR. Repeat looks at Sword-billed Hummingbird and Collared Inca were crowd pleasers. Standing less than a foot away from a Sword-billed Hummingbird maneuvering around a feeder was nothing short of amazing.
Tables and chairs, and a collection of printed sheets displaying hummingbirds commonly seen at Guango feeders, made for relaxed viewing. At the very least, the ID sheets helped reduce the barrage of hummingbird ID questions being fired at José and Richard who, as always, were very patient with us!
Satiated with our hummingbird fix, José rounded us up for a hike on one of the lodge’s trails. It had been overcast for some time but now it began to drizzle. I really had to make a point of picking up an umbrella in one of the towns we would pass through on our way to Gareno Lodge. However, the rain didn’t dissuade birds from feeding. We added: BLACK-CAPPED HEMISPINGUS, SLATY BUSH-FINCH and BAR-BELLIED WOODPECKER.
We negotiated a couple of barbwire gates and cattle guards on a path that lead to an old bridge spanning the Papallacta River. Rapids and plenty of rocks – there had to be a dipper here somewhere! Instead we found TORRENT TYRANNULET, a small chickadee-sized member of the tyrant flycatcher group, which flits and darts from rock to rock along river habitat in search of insects.
Eventually, way down stream and with the aid of scopes, two WHITE-CAPPED DIPPER were found, finally providing everyone who had missed seeing this bird with decent looks. Never satisfied, now how about a Torrent Duck?
Across the river we added NORTHERN MOUNTAIN CACIQUE and more looks at Golden-headed Quetzal, Hooded and Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager.
Working our way back up to the lodge we added: CINNAMON FLYCATCHER, BLUE-AND-BLACK TANAGER, RUFOUS-BREASTED CHAT-TYRANT, and CAPPED CONEBILL
One more turn around the hummingbird feeders, then it was back on the bus. A few more trip birds added during our return: ROADSIDE HAWK, and a GREATER YELLOW-LEGS feeding at settling ponds near the lodge. Now late afternoon and our tummies were reminding us that it must be time for dinner. And perhaps one of those killer margaritas!
Our birding days tend to be pretty demanding so it is with a great deal of anticipation that we look forward to our evening meals and a chance to unwind. There never seemed to be an end to interesting stories and tales spanning a wide variety of topics. Good food and conversation. Any wonder why we treasured this time of the day?
We completed our daily bird list tally (71 day total/24 new to trip total). What about the next day’s agenda? This was to be our last of two nights at Termas. So far, when we left a lodge, our departure was early in the morning. However, there were a few new wrinkles at Termas. First, an early departure would mean no breakfast. You mean we would be getting another “box breakfast”? (many groans!). Second, the majority of our laundry was not yet ready and wouldn’t be until later the next morning. We could hardly leave without our clothes. So what to do?
Not to worry. José and Richard suggested that we get up and bird a portion of the upper road that Richard and I had begun to explore earlier. Since we didn’t need to be up before daybreak we could sleep in a bit longer (yay!) We would then return to the lodge around 9:30 for a sit-down breakfast (double yay!). By then our laundry would be ready. We needed to have our packed bags placed in the front lobby in order to be on the road between 10:00 and 10:30. Seemed like a good plan to us! Much applause!
We walked back to our room in a light drizzle. Carol and I took the opportunity for another soak in the thermal pools before calling it a night. The hydrothermal value of Thermas de Papallacta Lodge is in part thanks to the lodge’s 's location to area volcanoes, the source waters of the thermal baths. Source water temperature can reach 158 degrees (F) – far too hot for safe soaking. Bath temperatures are brought down to between 97 and 104 degrees (F) by blending volcanic heated water with cold water from the nearby Papallacta River. Sitting in the hot springs provided a pleasant contrast with the areas colder climate. And so what if it was raining? One of the rare moments in the trip when being out in the rain really didn’t matter!
Where the heck are we? Not an uncommon question during our travels in Ecuador. Some people carried maps to follow our route. Steve had a map but he also used his handheld Garmin GPS unit to record coordinates of latitude and longitude at several locations.
Plug the coordinates into Google Earth or Google Map. Google Map in particular will provide a pretty good idea of where locations were in relation to Quito.
Listed below are the coordinates. Be sure to enter all numbers in correct sequence (and don’t forget the minus sign where needed). Copy and paste may work well. Thanks to Steve for providing this data – as if he wasn’t already carrying enough gear to keep track of!
-0.201983, -78.480067 Hotel Quito
-0.220483, -78.422867 Road stop on outskirts of Quito near (Day 2)
-0.5411, -78.207717 Lake Micococha near Antisana Volcano (Day 2)
-0.484383, -78.301283 Dirt road west of Antisana (Day 2)
-0.108917, -78.5482 just east of Yanacocha (Day 3)
0.002267, -78.677367 Tandayapa Lodge (Day 3)
0.030433, -7866517 Milpe (Day 6)
0.02015, -78.707217 Paz de las Aves (Angel Paz Day 7)
0.003967, -78.4897 Between Calacalí and “Mitad del Mundo” monument (Day 7)
-0.3323, -78.202167 Papallacta Pass (Day 7)
-0.362533, -78.14925 Termas de Papallacta Lodge (Day 7)
-0.3212, -78.192083 Antenna Farm (Day 8)
-0.377817, -78.07425 Guango Lodge (Day 8)
-0.330167, -78.1492 Road birded above Termas de Papallacta (Day 9)
-0.991367, -77.815967 Downtown City of Tena (Day 9)
-1.035683, -77.397167 Gareno Lodge (Day 9)
-0.959, -77.421533 Rio Napo boat ride landing in (Day 11)
-0.97555, -77.45195 Rio Napo boat ride landing out (Day 11)
-0.923517, -77.81695 Lunch stop on way to San Isidro Lodge (Day 11)
-0.580683, -77.865883 Town of Casangra (Day 11)
-0.590267, -77.8813 Cabinás San Isidro (Day 11)
-0.623567, -77.84025 Trail head for Guacamayos Ridge Trail (Day 12)
